Appearance/form: Orange oil

Useful for: acne and scars, ageing, hyperpigmentation

INCI name (PCPC) : Rosa canina, Rosa rubignosa

CAS No: 84696-47-9 / 84603-93

Family: Rosaceae

Introduction

Rose hip seed oil is a great natural moisturiser with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Due to its high levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids and phytosterols, it is suited to most skin types including oily and acne prone. It is a unique oil in that some forms contain trans-retinoic acid, a molecule that works well on hyperpigmented skin as well as ageing and anti-acne products.

Physical and Chemical Characteristics

Polyunsaturated fatty acids make up more than half of the lipid content of rosehip seeds. Because of its therapeutic effect on some skin diseases, rosehip seed oil has been utilised in cosmetics.(Franco et al, 2007)

The seed oil's fatty acid and sterol compositions were studied by Franco et al 2007. Phytochemicals such as phenolic compounds (2554 g/g), carotenoids (2.92 g/g), and ascorbic acid (1798 g/g) were found in the rosehip seed. Furthermore, rosehip-seed oil was found to be high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid (54.05%) and linolenic acid (19.37%), as well as phytosterols, particularly -sitosterol (82.1 %). Lesser amounts of other saturated fatty acids and small amounts of other dermatological actives of interest like transretinoic acid or natural tretinoin (between 0.01% and 0.1%) have also been identified. (Valerón-Almazán et al 2015)

Health Benefits (Internal Use)

Rosehips can help prevent and treat viral illnesses such as the common cold, as well as gastrointestinal disorders, urinary tract infections, and inflammatory diseases. Clinical research has indicated that rosehip powder can help with symptoms associated with osteoarthritis.   Bioactive substances like ascorbic acid, carotenoids, and phenolic compounds are thought to be responsible for rosehips' health benefits. Rosehips have the highest content of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) among fruits and vegetables, and have long been used in Europe as a herbal tea and vitamin supplement.   Rosehips are eaten fresh as a snack, and they are dried and used to make tea, jam, nectar, marmalade, and pestil (fruit leather).  Byproducts of rosehip products, such as the seeds, are used for animal nutrition.(Ilyasoğlu , 2014)

Linoleic and linolenic acids are essential fatty acids that act as precursors to omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. A balanced omega-6 fatty acid and omega-3 fatty acid intake is important in the prevention of chronic diseases such as coronary heart disease and cancer. The recommended omega-6 fatty acid to omega-3 fatty acid ratio ranges from 1:1 to 4:1. Rosehip seed oil may be a good source of omega fatty acids due to its higher percentage of polyunsaturated fatty acids and linolenic acid to linoleic acid ratio.(Yehuda 2003)

For various preparations of rose hip and rose hip and seed, antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects have been demonstrated. Lipophilic constituents are involved in those mechanisms of action. The proprietary rose hip and seed powder Litozin has been employed successfully in a number of exploratory studies in patients suffering from osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis and low back pain (Chrubasik C et al 2008).

Skin and Hair Benefits

As a Supplement

In a double blind study published in 2015, researchers looked at the effects of rosehip powder as a supplement on skin ageing. After 8 weeks of treatment, those who received  rosehip showed significant improvements in crow's feet, wrinkles, skin moisture, and elasticity. This suggested that taking rosehip internally has several anti-ageing benefits (Phetcharat, 2015).

One study found that rose hip extract (Rosa canina) inhibited melanogenesis in B16 mouse melanoma cells in large part due to proanthocyanidins. Furthermore, Rose hips extract inhibited pigmentation and tyrosinase activity in guinea pig skin. These findings suggest that when taken orally, rose hips extract may be useful as a skin whitening agent (Fujii et al 2011).

Topical Use

Rose hip seed oil is an excellent natural moisturising oil with strong regenerative, anti-inflammatory, and anti-ageing properties in part due to a high content of unsaturated fatty acids and an appropriate ratio of omega-6 and omega-3 essential fatty acids (Dąbrowska et al 2019)

Rosehip oil contains an abundance of linoleic and linolenic acid. Both α-linolenic acid and linoleic acids reduce UV-associated damage and hyperpigmentation of the skin (Ando et al 1998).

Wound Healing

One study found that “rosehip oil significantly promoted wound healing and effectively improved scars. This efficacy might be exerted by accelerating the macrophage phenotypes transition and inhibiting the process of epithelial-mesenchymal transition (Lei Z, 2019).”

Anti-ageing and Anti-Acne

Rosehip oil was applied to 180 patients with surgical, traumatic, and burn scars, as well as a group suffering from premature skin ageing, in a two-year study. The results were astounding. Continuous use of rosehip oil effectively reduced scars and wrinkles, slowed the progression of premature ageing, and restored lost skin colour and tone (Pareja and Kehl, 1988)

Rosehip oil's ability to regenerate damaged skin tissues was first attributed to its high content of unsaturated essential fatty acids. Because they are components of cell membranes and precursors of prostaglandine/leucotriens, these acids are important for healthy skin (when taken internally). Their presence did not adequately explain rosehip oil's regenerative properties. The researchers later identified Trans-retinoic acid as the substance responsible for these effects (ibid).

As mentioned, various studies have highlighted Rosehip as a natural source of trans-retinoic acid (Tretonin). Rosehip oil obtained by cold pressing and super critical extraction contained the highest levels of retinoic acid and that ‘all-trans-retinoic acid was found in the amount higher than 0.3% in cold pressed oil of R. rubiginosa’ (Dąbrowska, 2019).

Tretonin belongs to the first generation retinoids. It is the most bioactive form of retinoid. It is able to penetrate the stratum corneum and to a lesser extent, the dermis. (ibid) It strengthens the epidermis and encourages, ‘cell proliferation, differentiation and optosis’ (Zasada et al 2019). As an antioxidant it can both protect the skin, help repair photodamage, and concomitantly, helps with hyperpigmentation. Tretonin and other retinoids are considered the ‘foundation of…inflammatory and non inflammatory acne treatment’, for both acute and long term treatment of acne because of its ability to calm inflammation as well as encourage cell turnover (ibid).

How to Use it in your Formulations

To protect Rosehip oil from rancidity, use an antioxidant such as rosemary oil extract (ROE) or mixed tocopherol. I might be inclined to use a combination of 0.05% of each. Store the oil in conditions under 30c and away from UV to extend its shelf life (Turan et al 2018)

If you want the greatest levels of tretonin in your oil it is advisable to use supercritical extract of the oil or Rosehip Co2 extract. You will find that most of these extracts have ROE added at point of extraction to increase shelf life. Rosehip Co2 Extract has a shelf life of approximately 18 months so is highly stable. When making an emulsification with this oil, use it in the hot oil phase of your formulation along with your antioxidant.

References

Franco, D.; Pinelo, M.; Sineiro, J.; Nunez, M.J. Processing of Rosa rubiginosa: extraction of oil and antioxidant substances. Bioresource Technology 2007, 98, 3506–3512

Huri Ilyasoğlu (2014) Characterization of Rosehip (Rosa canina L.) Seed and Seed Oil, International Journal of Food Properties, 17:7, 1591-1598, DOI: 10.1080/10942912.2013.777075

Yehuda, S. Omega-6/Omega-3 ratio and brain-related functions. World Review of Nutrition and Dietetics 2003, 92, 37–56.

Phetcharat, L., Wongsuphasawat, K., & Winther, K. (2015). The effectiveness of a standardized rose hip powder, containing seeds and shells of Rosa canina, on cell longevity, skin wrinkles, moisture, and elasticity. Clinical interventions in aging, 10, 1849–1856. https://doi.org/10.2147/CIA.S90092

Fujii T, Ikeda K, Saito M. Inhibitory effect of rose hip (Rosa canina L.) on melanogenesis in mouse melanoma cells and on pigmentation in brown guinea pigs. Bioscience, Biotechnology and Biochemistry. 2011;75(3):489–495.

Valerón-Almazán, P. , Gómez-Duaso, A. , Santana-Molina, N. , García-Bello, M. and Carretero, G. (2015) Evolution of Post-Surgical Scars Treated with Pure Rosehip Seed Oil. Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications, 5, 161-167. doi: 10.4236/jcdsa.2015.52019.

Dąbrowska, M., Maciejczyk, E. and Kalemba, D. (2019), Rose Hip Seed Oil: Methods of Extraction and Chemical Composition. Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol., 121: 1800440. https://doi.org/10.1002/ejlt.201800440

Chrubasik C, Roufogalis BD, Müller-Ladner U, Chrubasik S. A systematic review on the Rosa canina effect and efficacy profiles. Phytother Res. 2008 Jun;22(6):725-33. doi: 10.1002/ptr.2400. PMID: 18384191.

Lei Z, Cao Z, Yang Z, Ao M, Jin W, Yu L. Rosehip Oil Promotes Excisional Wound Healing by Accelerating the Phenotypic Transition of Macrophages. Planta Med. 2019 May;85(7):563-569. doi: 10.1055/a-0725-8456. Epub 2018 Sep 10. PMID: 30199901.

Ando H., Ryu A., Hashimoto A., Oka M., Ichihashi M. (1998). Linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid lightens ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin. Arch. Dermatol. Res. 290, 375–381. 10.1007/s004030050320 [PubMed] [CrossRef] [Google Scholar] [Ref list]

Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019;36(4):392-397. doi:10.5114/ada.2019.87443

Turan, S. et al. “Bioactive Lipids, Antiradical Activity and Stability of Rosehip Seed Oil under Thermal and Photo-Induced Oxidation.” Grasas y Aceites 69.2 (2018): 248. Web.