Botanical Formulations

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Grapeseed Oil

Rebecca Wright

INCI: Vitis Vinifera

Family: Vitaceae

Iodine Value: 124-143

SAP Value: 180-200

Appearance: Pale yellow oil liquid

Introduction

Grape seed oil also Vitis Vinifera seed oil, is a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of grapes. It is a virtually clear to slightly yellow less viscous oil which is slightly nutty and sweet in aroma. It is usually found in in the Mediterranean region and central Europe. Grape seed oil is a commonly used gourmet oil and beneficial dietary supplement due to its essential fatty acids. Its natural antioxidants and phytochemicals have valuable cosmetics use. Production quantities are approximately 75 metric tons annually.

Physical and Chemical Characteristics

Grape seeds contain 8-20 % oil. The amount extracted depends on the method of extraction. It can be cold pressed or solvent extracted. Cold pressing is used to prevent loss of antioxidants, the most valued components for its use as a cosmetic.

It has high levels of phenolic compounds and lipophilic compounds such as Vitamin E, unsaturated fatty acids and phytosterols. Its chemical constituents depend upon several environmental factors and degree of maturation of the seeds. It has flavonoids, carotenoids, tannins and stilbenes. It has 59-360 mg gallic acid, an antioxidant which makes it nutritionally valuable.  The main phenols in this oil are catechins, epi-catechins trans-resveratrol and pro-cyanidin. Total amount of phenols is 2.9mg/kg. Linoleic acid is the most abundant fatty acid making up to 60-76 % of total fatty acids content (1).

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Skin and Hair Care Benefits

Grapeseed oil contains beneficial antioxidants for skin care. Vitamin E and Antioxidants oligomeric proanthocianidins (OPC) are probably the most abundant antioxidants in grapeseed oil. OPC functions to prevent and repair free radical damage to the skin. (2,4)

Vitamin E is also beneficial for skin; it helps moisturise and improve skin suppleness an elasticity thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles (5).

Grapeseed oil is a rich source of linoleic acid. Clinical studies have shown that topical application of linoleic acid soothes the skin and reduces trans-epidermal water loss (6)

Ceramide 1 is the main repository of strateum corneum linoleic acid, and changes in the levels of ceramide 1 linoleate are associated with cutaneous abnormalities: essential fatty acid deficiency, atopic dermatitis and acne (6).

It is thought that the relatively high levels of antioxidants (vitamin E and procyanidins) and linoleic acid make grapeseed oil useful in cosmetic products aimed for acneic and oily skin types (4).

Conclusion

Due to the long shelf life and rich source of linoleic acid and antioxidants this oil can be useful for cosmetic products for all skin types. It is a lightweight oil that could also work well in creams for dry and irritated skin conditions. Try it in a creams with cationic ingredients and ceramides to moisturise skin prone to eczema.  

References 

  1. Bail S, Stuebiger G, Krist S, Unterweger H, Buchbauer G. Characterisation of various grape seed oils by volatile compounds, triacylglycerol composition, total phenols and antioxidant capacity. Food Chem. 2008;108(3):1122–1132.

  2. Puiggros F, Llópiz N, Ardévol A, Bladé C, Arola L, Salvadó MJ. Grape seed procyanidins prevent oxidative injury by modulating the expression of antioxidant enzyme systems. J Agric Food Chem. 2005;53(15):6080–6086.

  3. Vinson JA, Mandarano MA, Shuta DL, Bagchi M, Bagchi D. Beneficial effects of a novel IH636 grape seed proanthocyanidin extract and a niacinbound chromium in a hamster atherosclerosis model. Mol Cell Biochem. 2002; 240(1–2):99–103.

  4. Aburjai, Talal & Natsheh, Feda. (2003). Plants Used in Cosmetics. Phytotherapy research : PTR. 17. 987-1000. 10.1002/ptr.1363.

  5. Wang YJ, Thomas P, Zhong JH, et al. Consumption of grape seed extract prevents amyloid-beta deposition and attenuates inflammation in brain of an Alzheimer’s disease mouse. Neurotox Res. 2009;15(1):3–14.

  6. Lubis, Sumaiyah & Leisyah, B.. (2019). THE EFFECT OF ANTIOXIDANT OF GRAPESEED OIL AS SKIN ANTI-AGING IN NANOEMULSION AND EMULSION PREPARATIONS. Rasayan Journal of Chemistry. 12. 1185-1194. 10.31788/RJC.2019.1235337.

  7. Conti A., Rogers, J., Verdejo, P., Harding, L.R., Rawlings.A.V (1995).: Seasonal influences on stratum corneum ceramide 1 fatty acids and the influence of topical essential fatty acids. J Cosmet Sci,;18: 1-12