INCI name (PCPC) : Sambucus nigra Seed Oil

CAS No: 68916-55-2 / 84603-58-7

SAP Value (KOH/g): 193.20

Iodine Value: 185.00

Family: Adoxaceae

Appearance/form: clear green/yellow oil

Introduction

Sambucus nigra L. (commonly known as black or European elderberry) is a species of native perennial herb in the Adoxaceae family of the Dipsacales order. Sambucus grows in temperate to subtropical climates around the world. The plants survive relatively poor soil conditions and prefer places with direct sunlight, but they may also grow in semi-shade. Sambucus nigra L. colonise quickly along motorways, forest margins, and fence lines due to their dark blue/purple fruits, which are attractive to birds (Dulf et al, 2013). Many countries around the world have traditionally used the leaves, flowers, and berries of these plants for a variety of therapeutic purposes. Black elderberry is rarely consumed fresh, instead the small berries are processed into jams, jellies, and juices. Several in vitro studies show that these berries have significant antioxidant activity as well as anticarcinogenic, immune-stimulating, antibacterial, antiallergic, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory characteristics. (ibid).

The oil is interesting in that it contains a very high amount of polyunsaturated fatty acid, up to 78% of both gamma linolenic acid and linoleic acid. In fact these are in greater quantities than borage oil, which is indicated for dry and irritated skin conditions. There are not many studies that look into the skin benefits of this oil and many online articles appear to attribute properties of the leaf and berry extract to the seed oil.

Physical and Chemical Characteristics

All parts of this plant (flower, bark, leaf, and fruits) are high in dietary phytochemicals such as carbohydrates, lipids, terpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acids, alkaloids, and so on. The concentration of important fatty acids, such as linoleic and -linolenic acids, is exceptionally high (about 39% each). The most notable components found in black elderberry fruits are polyphenols, such as anthocyanins, which have a high antioxidant activity (Kolesarova A et al 2022).

The berry seeds and thus their oils are by-products of the beverage and juice processing industry.

Elderberry seeds are rich in fatty acid, ranging from 22.40g-24.90g per 100g dry weight of the seed with high amounts of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) such as linoleic and linolenic acid, in the region of 75.5% (Dulf et al, 2013).

Health Benefits (general)

Black elder is an ancient medicine. The most common parts of the plant used for this purpose are the fruits and leaves. In Russian traditional medicine it is believed to ward off evil spirits and relieve fevers. In German traditional medicine the flowers are used as diaphoretic agent for feverish common colds and scarlet fever. The dried ripe or fresh elderberry are used for constipation, neuropathic pain, headache and toothache (Mahboubi et al 2021).

The World Health organisation lists elderberry as a useful treatment for many ailments; in addition to it’s use as a fever suppressant it is also used as a treatment for conjunctivitis, constipation, diabetes, diahrrhea, dry skin, headaches and rheumatism (ibid). Native Americans use elder flowers for infections, and coughs. The mixture of elder flowers with honey are used as a gargle for coughs, head colds, and flu. In ancient Egypt, Elder flowers were used to heal the burns and improve the complexion. It is thought that the broad range of medicinal uses of the plant are down to its phenolic compounds.

Various in vitro and in vivo studies have confirmed black elderberry as a treatment for viral respiratory infections (ibid). These studies have shown that extracts of elderberry “significantly reduced the cold duration and it’s severity in patients with flu and flu like disease.’ These studies also put it’s anti viral properties down to high levels of flavonoids, anthocyanins, polyphenols and other substances found in the berry (Mahboubi et al 2021).

The healing properties of elderberry are mostly associated with the presence of phenolic compounds, which are characterized by a strong antioxidant activity and therefore are able to eliminate free radicals and counteract the oxidative stress, a factor causing the degradation of the human body, thus contributing to the development of a number of diseases (Gollucke et al in Młynarczyk et al 2018)

One study found that elderberry extract used topically inceased collagen levels and damage caused by UVB damage. A variety of studies have also concluded that topical use of S. nigra reduced inflammation in skin burns and increased wound healing (Piazza et al, 2020).

Skin and Hair Benefits

There is scant research into the particular benefits of black elderberry seed oil despite a plethora of studies as a fruit or herbal extract. However, as mentioned it is unusually rich in PUFAs, particularly linolenic acid and linoleic acid, both of which are naturally present in healthy skin.

Linoleic acid is an omega-6 fatty acid. It is polyunsaturated, meaning it has more than one double bond. It is the most abundant fatty acid in the epidermis and serves as a structural precursor for vital skin lipids known as ceramides. As such, linoleic acid is essential for the structure and function of  a healthy skin barrier. Studies have found that LA deficiency leads to atopic dermatitis and other studies have found that using linoleic rich sunflower oil can rapidly improve skin barrier function.

Linolenic acid is an omega-3 fatty acid. Again, it is polyunsaturated. It is not syntheised in the skin, and like linoleic acid, needs to be obtained through dietary means. One study looked at the lightening effect of linolenic acid to UV pigmented (tanned) guinea pig skin in vitro. The researchers found that alpha-linolenic acid was the most efficient at inhibiting melanin production, followed by linoleic acid and then oleic acid. Furthermore, linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids accelerated stratum corneum turnover, which is important in the removal of melanin pigment from the epidermis (Ando et al, 1998). The results suggested that both linoleic acid and linolenic acid had skin lightening and exfoliating effects.

References

Dulf, F. V., Oroian, I., Vodnar, D. C., Socaciu, C., & Pintea, A. (2013). Lipid classes and fatty acid regiodistribution in triacylglycerols of seed oils of two Sambucus species (S. nigra L. and S. ebulus L.). Molecules (Basel, Switzerland), 18(10), 11768–11782. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules181011768

Mahboubi M. (2021). Sambucus nigra (black elder) as alternative treatment for cold and flu. Advances in Traditional Medicine, 21(3), 405–414. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13596-020-00469-z

Kolesarova A, Baldovska S, Kohut L, Sirotkin AV. Black Elder and Its Constituents: Molecular Mechanisms of Action Associated with Female Reproduction. Pharmaceuticals. 2022; 15(2):239. https://doi.org/10.3390/ph15020239

Młynarczyk, K., Walkowiak-Tomczak, D., & Łysiak, G. P. (2018). Bioactive properties of Sambucus nigra L. as a functional ingredient for food and pharmaceutical industry. Journal of functional foods, 40, 377–390. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jff.2017.11.025

Piazza, S., Fumagalli, M., Khalilpour, S., Martinelli, G., Magnavacca, A., Dell'Agli, M., & Sangiovanni, E. (2020). A Review of the Potential Benefits of Plants Producing Berries in Skin Disorders. Antioxidants (Basel, Switzerland), 9(6), 542. https://doi.org/10.3390/antiox9060542

Ando H, Ryu A, Hashimoto A, Oka M, Ichihashi M. Linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid lightens ultraviolet-induced hyperpigmentation of the skin. Arch Dermatol Res. 1998;290(7):375-381. doi:10.1007/s004030050320