Ecology, Botany and Traditional Use

Argan oil comes from the argana spinosa, a tree of the Sapotaceae family. It is endemic to Morocco, where argan groves naturally cover about 8000 km2. It can also be found in parts of Algeria (Z. Charrouf and D. Guillaume, 2008) The argan tree is a spiny tree. If grown in a favourable environment it can grow up to 10 meters high. It lives a long life, often longer than 200 years.

Argan oil is prepared from the kernels contained in the fruit following a multistep process. Traditionally, edible argan is prepared by lightly roasting the kernels prior to grinding and made into a dough, before it is boiled with water to separate the oil. Unroasted kernels are saved to use in cosmetology.(ibid) The oil is pressed by Berber women in cooperatives. Historically all aspects of the preparation; from peeling to grinding to pressing, was performed by hand, however nowadays some of the preparation is performed mechanically albeit under strict rules. A scratching machine is used, that pulls the skin and the pulp away from the seed and mechanical presses to extract the oil. (ibid)

Argan oil gained Protected Geographical Indication recognition in 2010. This means that only the oil produced in Morocco can be called ‘argan oil.’ Its importance in Moroccan culture derives from it’s traditional use in local cuisine, medicine and cosmetics; the vegetable oil has been prescribed for reputed cosmetic, bactericidal, and fungicidal properties and as a treatment for infertility and heart disease.

Physical and Chemical Characteristics

The triglyceride content of argan oil is dominated by fatty acids oleic acid and linoleic acid and to a lesser extent palmitic acid. (Miklavcic et al, 2020). Unsaponifiable matter consititutes 1% and is made up of carotenes (37%), tocopherols (8%), terpene alcohols (2%), sterols (29%) and xanthophylls (5%). The tocopherol level as well as the presence of phenols contribute to argan oils stability. (zoubaida et al,2008) Unroasted kernels are used to produce cosmetic grade argan oil.

Internal Use of Argan Oil

Phenolic compounds, phytosterols and tocopherols present in argan oil may have ‘cancer chemoprotective effects’ (El Monfalouti et al 2013) and can potentially prevent obesity and adverse cardiovascular outcomes. It is purported that the compounds in argan oil can lower cholesterol and ‘inhibit platelet aggregation’ (thins the blood) which prevents diseases associated with blood clotting.

These findings demonstrate that argan oil treatment reduced the elevation in blood pressure, hyperglycemia and insulin resistance through its anti-oxidative properties in glucose-fed rats. Hence argan oil which is now available in the market as consumable food may be of potential therapeutic value in the treatment of arterial hypertension and insulin resistance. (Lizard, G et al 2017)

To date, most research on the dietary benefits of Argan oil has focused on its prevention of cardiovasular disease. (Zoubaida et al, 2008)

Cosmetic Use

Anti-ageing Activity

Decrease in the hormone estrogen is associated in a decrease in collagen and elastin in the skin. One study evaluated the effect of topical and daily consumption of argan oil on skin elasticity in post-menopausal women. 60 post menopausal women consumed 25 grams of the same butter for two weeks to stabilise their lipid profiles. Following this they were randomly and equally divided into two diet groups. One group was given argan oil and the other, olive oil. Both groups were asked to apply 240 mg of cosmetic argan oil to the left volvar forearm. They were not permitted to use any other cosmetic product on that area. After 60 days, gross, net and biological elasticity was evaluated as well as resonance running time. The study concluded that a combination of daily consumption and topical application of argan oil improved skin elasticity and this was related to an increase in collagen content and elastin fibres in the skin. No statistically significant improvement was seen after consumption of olive oil (Boucetta et al, 2015).

Anti-sebum Activity

The anti-sebum activity of topical argan oil was demonstrated on 20, 17 to 50 year-old volunteers with oily facial skin. Clinical assessment and instrumental measurements were performed before and after the treatment period whereby sebum levels were ascertained on the forehead and both cheeks. The subjects were asked to apply the argan oil containing cream twice daily over a period of four weeks. The study revealed remarkable anti-sebum activity that translated to reduced greasiness and improved appearance of oily facial skin. Treatments longer than four weeks did not show improved sebum-regulating effect.

After 4 weeks of treatment, the clinical assessment scores decreased by 33%. There was a significant reduction in the casual sebum level by 20% and area covered with oily spots by 42%. The number of active sebaceous glands remained unaltered. (Dobrev, 2007)

Hair Care

Argan oil is thought to improve hair quality by preventing damage to the exterior cuticle of the hair shaft while preserving the natural pigment, melanin.

According to a 2013 study from Brazil, argan oil was able to enhance hair quality and dye retention after undergoing multiple hair coloring treatments. Hair coloring is one of the harshest procedures hair can undergo, and argan oil appears to have a protective effect when compared to commercial hair conditioners.

Conclusion

Some studies have found argan oil to be anti ageing in that it has an antioxidant effect and can increase collagen production and elastin fibres. A small study has found it to be beneficial to oily skin. Argan oil has a nutty scent that might not be appreciated by some people, so it is quite good that you can get it deodorised. This oil can be used up to 100%.

References

Zoubida Charrouf and Dominique Guillaume (2008 ) Argan oil: Occurrence, composition and impact on human health , Eur. J. Lipid Sci. Technol. 2008, 110, 632–636)

Milena Bucar Miklavcic 1 , Fouad Taous , Vasilij Valencic , Tibari Elghali , Maja Podgornik , Lidija Strojnik and Nives Ogrinc (2020) Fatty Acid Composition of Cosmetic Argan Oil: Provenience and Authenticity Criteria, MDIP

El Monfalouti, Hanae & Guillaume, Dom & Denhez, Clement & Charrouf, Zoubida. (2013). Therapeutic potential of argan oil A review.

Boucetta KQ, Charrouf Z, Aguenaou H, Derouiche A, Bensouda Y. The effect of dietary and/or cosmetic argan oil on postmenopausal skin elasticity. Clin Interv Aging. 2015 Jan 30;10:339-49. doi: 10.2147/CIA.S71684. PMID: 25673976; PMCID: PMC4321565.

Evans, W. C., Evans, D., & Trease, G. E. (2009). Trease and Evans pharmacognosy. Edinburgh: Saunders/Elsevier.

https://www.mdedge.com/dermatology/article/115388/aesthetic-dermatology/update-argan-oil

Lizard, G., Filali-Zegzouti, Y., & Midaoui, A. E. (2017). Benefits of Argan Oil on Human Health-May 4-6 2017, Errachidia, Morocco. International journal of molecular sciences, 18(7), 1383. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms18071383

Dobrev H. Clinical and instrumental study of the efficacy of a new sebum control cream. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007 Jun;6(2):113-8. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00306.x. PMID: 17524128.

Tichota DM, Silva AC, Sousa Lobo JM, Amaral MH. Design, characterization, and clinical evaluation of argan oil nanostructured lipid carriers to improve skin hydration. Int J Nanomedicine. 2014 Aug 11;9:3855-64. doi: 10.2147/IJN.S64008. PMID: 25143733; PMCID: PMC4137996.