Abyssinian (Crambe) Seed Oil
Saponification Value (mg KOH/g oil): 160-175
SAP Multiplier for NaOH: 0.119
SAP Multiplier for KOH: 0.167
Iodine value: : 85-105
Origin: Ethiopia
INCI: Crambe abyssinica Seed Oil
Extraction Method: Cold expressed
Shelf Life: 3+ years
Crambe seed oil comes from the Crambe abyssinica plant, weed belonging to the Brassicaceac (mustard) family. It is native to the Abyssinian foothills of Ethiopia and the North African plains (1) but due to its ability to grow with ease, it is now cultivated in much of the Mediterranean (5).
The oil is extracted from the light yellow fruit seeds. The oil is pale yellow (almost clear) with a light nutty odour. Although the oil is inedible it has a some industrial uses as a lubricant. Hydrogenated crambe oil is a white solid that can be used as a wax. Because it contains high levels of docosenoic acid (Erucic acid), it is highly resistant to oxidation and heat degradation. In fact it has a longer shelf life than olive oil.
Crambe contains unusually high levels of monosaturated omega-9 fatty acid erucic acid - which can be present up to 60%. It is the highest amount in all known vegetable oils. Erucic acid has a very long carbon chain length of C22:1. Despite its high molecular weight, Abyssinian oil is liquid at room temperature.
Erucic acid has many industrial uses as a lubricant and in the production of plastics. Erucic acid is useful as a pour point depressant (allows to pour at a lower temperature) and is used as a slip agent or lubricant. This characteristic is probably why it is favoured for use as a natural silicone alternative in the cosmetic industry.
Crambe Seed Oil for Hair Care
A study by TRI Princeton compared the effects of both argan oil and crambe seed oil on mixed race hair to determine if both were interchangeable for use in hair care products. They found that Abyssinain oil provided similar or even slightly better comb-ability than argan oil and offered the same conditioning and manageability effect as Argan oil. Both argan oil and Abyssinian oil strengthened hair in grooming tests but overall Abyssinian oil was superior in reducing breakage of hair fibers. As a natural shine enhancer, Abyssinian oil worked just as effectively as Argan oil.
Skin
Monounsaturated long chain fatty acids such as erucic acid can disrupt the skin barrier in the same way as oleic acid. This makes it great as a penetration enhancer for hard-to-absorb cosmetic ingredients as well other compounds present in the plant oils (2,4). The combined total of erucic and oleic acid could be as high as 90% in Crambe seed oil and because of this using at 100% may have a negative effect on the skin barrier and would probably not be wise to use it at high levels in formulations for people with a compromised skin barrier (dermatitis) or new born babies (neonates.)
Crambe seed oil can contain relatively moderate levels of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), linolenic and linoleic acid. The presence of which may counter act any negative effects of erucic acid. Both linolenic and linoleic acid are not created by the body and need ingested for their benefits as anti inflammatory agents (5)
It is a silky oil that can be used in hair and skin care products as a silicone replacement and used at no more than 20%, balanced with oils high in PUFAs such as borage or evening primrose oil.
Summary
What does it feel like? A few drops rubbed onto the hand give an instantly glossy appearance however, with in moments it is ‘absorbed’ leaving the skin looking and feeling conditioned yet with a matte appearance. This oil may be good to include in face and body oils for most skin types.
Overall, this oil is very promising as a cosmetic ingredient. It has a light skin feel, colour and scent and is fairly affordable. Unlike many vegetable oils, it has a pretty long shelf life. It contains omega 9 fatty acids that could cause skin barrier disruption and as such, it would be good to limit the use rate in any given formulation.
References
Lalas, Stavros & Gortzi, Olga & Athanasiadis, Vassilis & Dourtoglou, Thalia & Dourtoglou, Vassilis. (2012). Full Characterisation of Crambe abyssinica Hochst. Seed Oil. Journal of Oil & Fat Industries. 89. 2253-2258. 10.1007/s11746-012-2122-y.
Moore EM, Wagner C, Komarnytsky S. The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care. Front Pharmacol. 2020;11:785. Published 2020 May 29. doi:10.3389/fphar.2020.00785 (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7272663/)
Vaughn AR, Clark AK, Sivamani RK, Shi VY. Natural Oils for Skin-Barrier Repair: Ancient Compounds Now Backed by Modern Science. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2018 Feb;19(1):103-117. doi: 10.1007/s40257-017-0301-1. PMID: 28707186
Lin TK, Zhong L, Santiago JL. Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils. Int J Mol Sci. 2017;19(1):70. Published 2017 Dec 27. doi:10.3390/ijms19010070
Balić A, Vlašić D, Žužul K, Marinović B, Bukvić Mokos Z. Omega-3 Versus Omega-6 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids in the Prevention and Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseases. Int J Mol Sci. 2020;21(3):741. Published 2020 Jan 23. doi:10.3390/ijms21030741
https://www.personalcaremagazine.com/story/10910/comparison-of-abyssinian-oil-and-argan-oil-in-hair-care