Centella asiatica, also known as Gotu Kola, is a south Asian therapeutic herb that has been used for hundreds of years in traditional Asian medicine. It is recommended particularly for dermatological disorders; to cure tiny wounds, scratches, burns, hypertrophic wound healing, and as an anti-inflammatory agent, especially in eczema.

It is also used in folk medicine as  an antipyretic, diuretic, rheumatic, antibacterial, and antiviral medicine, as well as for boosting cognition, reducing anxiety, and acting as an anti-cancer agent. C. asiatica was once used to treat epilepsy, hysteria, leprosy, minor itching, and bug bites (Bilka et al 2013, Gohil et al 2010, )

The saponins (or triterpenoids) contained in Centella asiatica, such as asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassoside, and madasiatic acid, are responsible for the plant's skin benefits. Fatty acids, flavonoids, vitamin B, vitamin C, and amino acids are all included in Centella asiatica's chemical makeup (Singh  et al, 2010; Boju et al 2020)

Skin Benefits of Centella asiatica

The pharmaceutical grade Centella Asiatica extract (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica; TECA) contains the four triterpenoids (asiaticoside, asiatic acid, madecassoside, madasiatic acid) and is used as an antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-cancer agent, as well as aiding in wound healing processes like coagulation, inflammation, cell migration and proliferation, scar formation, and dermal remodelling [An, I et al 2012].

Centella asiatica and the Treatment of Wounds

Centella Asiatica's potential to enhance wound healing was one of the first skin benefits discovered. In fact, this is one of the most researched benefits of the plant, with a huge number of in vitro and in vivo scientific studies to back it up [Bylka, W et al 2013].

According to studies, its ability to increase collagen synthesis and reduce inflammation lend itself to being an effective wound healer. One study suggested that wounds treated with TECA and the extracted triterpenoids (Asiatic acid, madecassic acid, and asiaticoside) had higher protein and collagen levels, as well as greater collagen matrix remodelling. Furthermore, the extracts were able to boost glycosaminoglycan synthesis, especially hyaluronic acid [Maquart et al 1999].

Centella Asiatica extract in other forms has been shown to reduce hypertrophic scar formation [Bylka W et al 2013] and boost antioxidant levels in freshly produced skin tissue [Shukla et al 1999].

Anti-Stretch-Mark and Anti-Cellulite Benefits of Centella Asiatica

Cellulite is caused by an increase in the number of fat cells or a decrease in connective tissue integrity, which results in fat 'bulging' through the connective tissue and constriction of small blood vessels [Bylka et al 2013]. This gives the appearance of dimpled and 'lumpy' skin, most commonly seen around the thighs and buttocks.

Cellulite treatments generally focus on changing fat tissue and connective tissue, as well as improving circulation. Centella asiatica extracts can improve microcirculation and regulate connective tissue cell metabolism.

In one study, 60 individuals who suffered from cellulite used Madecassol,  a Centella asiatica extract, four times a day for four months.  Results showed it significantly improved the appearance of cellulite in 85 percent of cases [Brinkhaus et al 2000]. When taken orally, Centella Asiatica extracts have shown similar benefits [Rossi et al 2000].

According to a study by Mallol et al (1991), Centella asiatic extracts may help prevent stretch marks during pregnancy. A cream containing Centella asiatica extract, vitamin E, hydrolyzed collagen, and elastin, was applied daily to the breasts, abdomen, buttocks, and hips of 50 pregnant women, while another 50 pregnant women received a placebo cream.

In this study, stretch marks were experienced by 56 percent (22 out of 39) of the women in the placebo group and 34 percent (14 out of 41) of the women in the treatment group. Furthermore, the severity of the stretch marks experienced by the treatment group was less severe than that of the placebo group. Interestingly, in women who had a history of stretch marks during puberty, the Centella asiatica cream provided future protection from stretch marks. ‘In women with a history of striae during puberty, the active cream induced a significant absolute prevention in 89% of the cases whereas in the placebo group all the women developed striae’ [ibid].

Anti ageing Benefits of Centella asiatica

Centella asiatica was found to be effective at increasing collagen production, particularly type I collagen, in studies on wound healing. Because collagen production and the amount of collagen in the skin decrease with age, this study suggested that Centella asiatica may have anti-ageing properties.

One study looked at the effects of 0.1 percent madecassoside combined with 5% vitamin C applied topically to the skin of 20 female participants. Biometrological tests revealed a significant improvement in skin firmness, elasticity, and hydration after 6 months of use [Hafte et al 2008].

Madecassoside is thought to increase collagen expression by activating specific signalling pathways, whereas vitamin C stimulates collagen production in fibroblasts and regulates the enzymes that break down collagen. This means that when combined, madecassoside and vitamin C may be especially effective at increasing collagen levels in the skin due to their different mechanisms of action creating an 'additive' effect [Bylka et al 2013].

Anti-Acne

Acne, a s a disease of the pilosebaceous unit (Beltrami et al), is an characterised by ‘plugging of pores, the overproduction of oil, and the results of bacterial colonization of the sebaceous follicle (oil gland)’(Danby 2014)

In a 2001 study, Beltrami and colleagues studied the effects of a herbal cream containing gotu kola on 30 participants with varying degrees of facial acne. Out of the 30, 15 were given the herbal cream and the other 15 were given the same cream and a placebo oral medication. The participants were not allowed to administer any other acne treatments. Following the trial their skin was evaluated for hydration, sebum levels, skin brightness and erythema, Following 90 days of treatment topica! anti-acne cream and topica! antiacne plus placebo had a positive therapeutic effect on acne. The treatment was found to improve overall acne severity, reduced sebum production, and prevented acne-related scarring in additional studies [Beltrami et al 2001].

As seen above, centella asiatica has been shown to reduce inflammation, increase collagen production which effects wound healing, all of which can help with reducing acne symptoms.

One characteristic of acne is microbial (bacterial and fungal) infection. Centella Asiatica has also been shown to inhibit the growth of a variety of bacteria species, including E. coli and S. aureus (Soyingbe et al 2018]. The antibacterial activity of Centella Asiatica root extract appear to be superior to those of Centella Asiatica leaf extract. Both, however, appear to be helpful in lowering specific bacteria, yeast, and funghi strains [Nasution et al 2018].

Other Benefits

Anti-inflammatory and Moisturising

In a mouse model of atopic dermatitis, TECA was also reported to reduce skin inflammation and allergic reaction [14]. Other types of Centella Asiatica extract have shown similar results, suggesting that Centella Asiatica may be useful in the treatment of inflammatory skin disorders [Ho et al 2018].

Centella Asiatica extracts were found to have anti-inflammatory and moisturising effects in other studies. Centella Asiatica extracts, when applied twice daily to the skin, enhanced skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after one week and continued to do so after four weeks. Centella Asiatica extracts also reduced skin irritation by restoring the skin barrier function, reducing redness, and lowering the pH of the skin [Ratz Lyko et al 2016].

As an antioxidant Booster

As previously stated, a Centella asiatica extract was able to increase antioxidant levels in newly formed skin tissue. For example, twice-daily topical application of 0.2 percent asiaticoside for 7 days increased superoxide dismutase by 35%, catalase by 67%, glutathione peroxidase by 49%, vitamin E by 77%, and vitamin C (ascorbic acid) by 36%. Furthermore, it reduced lipid peroxide levels by 69%. More than 7 days of topical Centella asiatica extract application did not appear to increase antioxidant levels [Shukla et al 1999].

Oral treatment with Centella asiatica extracts shows similar antioxidant-boosting properties, suggesting that it could be therapeutic for oxidative stress-related disorders [Veerendra-Kumar et al 2003].

Sun Protection

TECA has been shown to protect skin from UVB-induced damage [ An et al 2012], suggesting that Centella Asiatica extracts may also protect skin from sun damage.

Conclusion

If you are looking for an ingredient to use to support anti ageing, anti acne and body contouring products, gotu kola is probably a good choice. There are a variety of extracts on the market. Many appear to be hydroglycolic extracts which are water soluble. It is also possible to get the active components of centella i.e the triterpenoid saponins such as Madecassoside or asiaticoside.

TEGO® Natural Madecassoside is a standardised extract marketed “for its ability to improve collagen production and alleviate inflammation-related skin conditions.” (Evonic)

Indena Spa (Givaudan Active Beauty) sell Centerox™(Madecassoside (and) Asiaticoside) and describe it as, “Centerox™ is a collagen synthesis enhancer with a white powder appearance and is used for anti-wrinkling. It is suitable for body care emulsions, anti-cellulite products, leg care, firming products, and mature skin treatments.”

Reference

An, I., An, S., Kang, S., Choe, T, Lee, S., Jang, H. & Bae, S. (2012). ‘Titrated extract of Centella Asiatica provides a UVB protective effect by altering microRNA expression profiles in human dermal fibroblasts’, Int J Molecular Medicine., 30(12), 1194-1202.

Beltrami, B., Vassallo, C., Berardesca, E. & Borroni, G. (2001). ‘Antinflammatory, antimicrobial, comedolytic effects of a topical plant complex treatment in acne vulgaris: A clinical trial’, J Appl Cosmetol., 19, 11-20.

Boju, Sun, Lili, Wu, Wu, You;  Zhang Chengfei, Qin Lingling, Hayashi Misa, Kudo Maya, Gao Ming, Liu Tonghua (2022) Therapeutic Potential of Centella asiatica and Its Triterpenes: A Review; Frontiers in Pharmacology; Volume 11, 2022 https://www.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fphar.2020.568032

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Danby, F.W. (2014). Acne: Causes and Practical Management.

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Haftek, M. Mac-Mary, S., Le Bitoux, M. et al. (2008). ‘Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin’, Exp Dermatol., 17(11), 946-952. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18503551/

Ho, J., Sung, J., Cheon, K. & Tae, J. (2018). ‘Anti-inflammatory effect of Centella Asiatica phytosome in a mouse model of phthalic anhydride-induced atopic dermatitis’, Phytomedicine, 43, 110-119. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/29747743

Mallol, J., Belda, M., Costa, D., Noval, A. & Sola, M. (1991). ‘Prophylaxis of Striae gravidarum with a topical formulation. A double-blind trial’, Int J Cosmet Sci., 13(1), 51-57. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19291041

Maquart, F., Chastang, F., Simeon, A., Birembaut, P., Gillery, P. & Wegrowski, Y. (1999). ‘Triterpenes from Centella Asiatica stimulate extracellular matrix accumulation in rat experimental wounds’, Eur J Dermatol., 9(4), 289-296. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10356407

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Park, J., Choi, J., Son, D., Park, E., Song, M., Hellstrom, M. & Hong, J. (2017). ‘Anti-inflammatory effect of titrated extract of Centella Asiatica in phthalic anhydride-induced allergic dermatitis animal model’, Int J Mol Sci., 18(4), 738. Available at: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5412323/

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