Botanical Formulations

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How to: Pomegranate Peel Hydroglycerin Extract

Introduction

Following on from my post about rosehip hydroglycerin extract, this is an almost identical one about pomegranate. Like the rosehip glycerite, this is featured in my rosehip and pomegranate range. I have used the same method for my extract, in that I sundried the fresh pomegranate peel and steeped them in a mixture of glycerin and water to extract the important compounds.

Skin Benefit of Pomegranate Extract

Pomegranate extracts have been studied for their potential benefits for the skin. These extracts contain several bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins, which have antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties. Pomegranate extracts have been shown to help reduce the appearance of wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and hydration, and protect the skin against UV-induced damage. They may also have antimicrobial and wound-healing properties, and have been studied for their potential to alleviate skin conditions such as acne, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. Additionally, pomegranate extracts have been found to modulate the gut microbiome, suggesting a potential link between gut health and skin health. Overall, pomegranate extracts have shown promise as natural and safe ingredients in skincare products for promoting healthy and youthful-looking skin. You can find more about the skin benefits of pomegranate in this post .

What is a hydroglycerin extract?

Hydroglycerin extracts, also known as glycerites or glycerin extracts, are a type of liquid herbal extract that is made by combining herbs with glycerin and water. Glycerin is a sweet-tasting, colorless, odorless, and viscous liquid that is commonly used in the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries. Glycerin is a natural humectant, meaning that it can help to attract and retain moisture in the skin, making it a popular ingredient in skincare products. When herbs are combined with glycerin and water and heated, the glycerin extracts the active compounds from the herbs, resulting in a concentrated liquid extract that can be used for various purposes, including in skincare products, dietary supplements, and herbal remedies. Hydroglycerin extracts are particularly useful for extracting compounds that are water-soluble or heat-sensitive, which may be lost or degraded during other extraction methods.

Method for making Pomegranate Extract

I made a 12.5% pomegranate peel extract. The remaining was a 75% solution of 99% glycerin and deionised water. After sun drying the pomegranate peel for a few days I ground it in a coffee grinder, placed it in a jar and topped with my water/glycerin mixture and left it for 6 weeks in a sunny position. Thereafter, I decanted and strained through a coffee filter. The easiest way to make your glycerine solution is to simply mix 75 grams of glycerine with 25 grams of water and use the desired amount, in this case 87.5 grams of the solution into 12.5 grams of pomegranate peel. I wanted to have more control of the water content so I needed to consider that the glycerin content was not 100% (contains 1% water) and that by calculating the above way would leave me with more water than intended. Past herbalists have asserted that anything between 60-75% glycerin solution is self preserving. So you can either make a simple solution as explained above or calculate as I have done below.

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Method:

  1. Peel and sun dry, and grind pomegranate peel

  2. place in a jar

  3. Combine water and glycerin and top up jar with the solution

  4. Cover and label (date, name)

  5. After 6 weeks strain using a coffee filter (see below), check pH and record

How to use Pomegranate Extract

There is limited information on the heat sensitivity of pomegranate extract. However, a study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry in 2013 found that heating pomegranate extract at 80 C for up to 30 minutes did not significantly affect the phenolic content or antioxidant activity of pomegranate extract. Feel free to add this extract to the water phase of your formulation if you do not intend on reaching higher than 80c. Alternatively you can add it to the cool down or when it reaches below 80c.

References

Taskeen-Un-Nisa, Ahmad R., et al. "Stability of phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity of pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) juices and extracts subjected to thermal processing." Journal of agricultural and food chemistry 61.14 (2013): 3842-3851.