I really love CeraVe Moisturising Cream. It is a thick emulsion for dry skin conditions, contains cationic (positive charge) ingredients, a combination of ceramides and silicones. As such it isn’t considered natural under most standards.

I wanted to make something like it but with more natural ingredients, so I did.

This is a very simple formulation that uses Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl alcohol otherwise known as BTMS 25. This is a conditioning emulsifier often used in hair care products. It provides anti static, softening and lubricating properties - it gives that typical slimy feel to skin and hair while wet. BTMS 25 has 25% Behentrimonium Methosulfate so the total amount in this formula is 2.25% with the remaining cetearyl alcohol,making up 6.75%. Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy substance that adds body to the cream. There are other ways to do this type of thing i.e. use other types of conditioning agents in small amounts and build up body with fatty alcohols, butters and waxes. I wanted to keep this simple so I used a larger amount of BTMS 25. According to data sheets it is perfectly acceptable to use up to 10% of this ingredient.

My cream also contains nature derived lipids (NatureDerm IL and Dub Zenoate) rather than vegetable oils and butters. As such it can be classed as ‘oil free’. I did this for skin feel, to keep it close to the benchmark (CeRave) that doesnt use vegetable oils, and to retard rancidity.

The CeraVe formula original contains a mixture of ceramides known as SK-INFLUX® V MB (Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP; Phytosphingosine; Cholesterol; Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate; Carbomer; Xanthan Gum) but I wanted to avoid the carbomer so I used Ceramide NP. What do ceramides do?

Ceramides are epidermal lipids found in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. They are of key importance to skin barrier function (1). Changes in skin ceramide content are linked to a number of skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and it is understood that adding ceramides to skincare products may help improve the skin barrier and reduce atopic dermatitis and other dry and irritated skin conditions (2).

I used glycerine and propanediol to draw moisture to the skin. Glycerine is particularly sticky but zemea propanediol is not.

The combination of all of these ingredients adds moisture (water) from the humectants, emolliency from the lipids and ceramides, as well as delays transepidermal loss, and conditions the skin.

I preserved with Evicide Levulinate S which works best at a pH of 6 or below, but you can use an alternative that is compatible with these ingredients. You could try Euxyl 9010 (phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerine) or Geogard 221.

Method

1. Heat phase A into main vessel to 75c

2. Add phase B to main vessel and bring temperature back up to 75 c

3. Homogenise for 2 minutes and stir until temperature reaches 40 c

4. Add preservative in phase C and reduce pH with lactic acid to between 4.5 and 6

5. Decant

References

1. Coderch L, López O, de la Maza A, Parra JL. Ceramides and skin function. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003;4(2):107-29. doi: 10.2165/00128071-200304020-00004. PMID: 12553851.

2. Meckfessel MH, Brandt S. The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2014 Jul;71(1):177-84. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2014.01.891. Epub 2014 Mar 20. PMID: 24656726.